Plug Ugly’s Publick House

With its smoked-tobacco toned, paneled wood interior and Old World pub ambience, Plug Ugly’s Publick House is a little prettier than its name lets on. And although all good Southern belles know it’s improper to talk politics at the dinner table, this Canton restaurant was named after the Plug Uglies— a 19th-century political club and part-time rebellious street gang based in Baltimore. Despite its salty origins, Plug Ugly’s is a sweet mix of Southern cuisine, fine dining and strong cocktails. But for every sweet found under the spacious two-level restaurant’s roof (we hear the Peanut Butter Bombs are to die for…) there is a Southern-inspired entrée to counter it, and sandwiches like the fried oyster Po’ Boy bring just the right amount of Cajun influence into Canton. Chef Roger Sugars doesn’t get much time to sit around and taste the fruits of his labor, but says his ideal meal at Plug Ugly’s begins with a crispy fried oyster appetizer, followed by the pan-seared rockfish and ends on a soft note: the bread pudding with whiskey sauce. Nothin’ ugly about that. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. 2908 O’Donnell St. 410-563-8459, http://www.pluguglyspub.com —Taylor Colvin